Skin care products containing Vitamin C are often quoted as having transformative effects on skin health. But why is this ingredient so popular and so publicised and is it really worth the hype?

This article provides an in-depth look at the importance of Vitamin C in skincare, uncovering its benefits and guiding you on how to effectively incorporate it into your daily regimen.

What is Vitamin C?

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is an essential nutrient that plays a vital role in many cellular processes including boosting our immunity, promoting wound healing and stimulating collagen synthesis.

This water-soluble vitamin is naturally found in a wide array of fruits and vegetables, as well as in over-the-counter health supplements and skin care lines and has been a well-established and well trusted ingredient in the realms of health and wellness.

How does Vitamin C benefit the skin?

The skin-related benefits of Vitamin C are largely linked to its powerful antioxidant properties: When we are exposed to environmental stressors such as UV light and pollution, harmful free-radicals are produced which play havoc on our skin and lead to a series of processes known as ‘oxidative damage’ or ‘oxidative stress’. This damage contributes to the premature signs of ageing, such as the breakdown of collagen.
Vitamin C is able to neutralise these free radicals and safeguard our skin from this harmful damage, therefore acting as a powerful anti-oxidant skin shield.
Vitamin C acts as a co-factor in collagen production. This in turn promotes collagen synthesis, a process which is key to maintaining skin's firmness and elasticity and therefore reducing the appearance of fine lines. Its role in collagen synthesis is also why it is so intricately linked to wound healing and can have a role in reducing the severity of common skin conditions such as acne scarring.
Vitamin C has the ability to brighten the complexion and reduce hyperpigmentation and this helps to even out skin tone and reduce skin dullness. It does this through its ability to inhibit an enzyme known as tyrosinase, which is responsible for melanin production and can therefore lead to dark spots and uneven skin tone.

The Skin Benefits of Vitamin C in a Nutshell

Antioxidant properties: Fights off harmful free radicals that are produced from things like UV exposure and environmental pollution
It boosts collagen production and protects our existing collagen from degradation
It reduces hyperpigmentation
It improves skin dullness and brightens the complexion

Vitamin C in Skin Care Ingredients: What to look out for?

Look for ingredients that have Vitamin C listed towards the top of their ingredient list: this implies a higher concentration and therefore more benefits for your skin
Look out for the specific Vitamin C subtype which is most suited for your skin type and skin concerns (more of this below). L-Ascorbic Acid is its most potent and effective form
Topically applied Vitamin C works best in concentrations of 10-20%: This is the sweet spot between effectiveness and safety: Concentrations higher than 20% might lead to skin irritation whereas values less that 10% may have less noticeable results.
Vitamin C is a true superstar: this means that it can exhibit some diva-like behaviours in that it is highly unstable! Therefore it can easily be degraded by light and air. Look for products that are formulated in airtight, light-proof/opaque containers or those that contain stabilising co-ingredients such as Ferulic Acid. If a previously clear serum has turned yellow or brownish, its time to bin it! And on that note, make sure you store your Vitamin C away from direct sunlight.
Your skin type may influence which Vitamin C formulation works best for you: For dry skin, a Vitamin C cream might be more suited as it usually involves moisturizing agents that alleviate dryness and flaky skin. On the other hand, those with oilier skin might find serums more suitable as they are lightweight and non-greasy

Subtypes of vitamin C

1. L-Ascorbic Acid: This is the most effective and most well-researched form of Vitamin C. Being the most potent form, it is also the most likely to cause irritation, so be mindful to start gently or avoid altogether if you really struggle with sensitivity. This form is therefore better suited for those with oily or normal skin. This is also the most unstable form so packaging is key!

2. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: This form is milder in its action so it is therefore a less irritating option, ideal for those with sensitive skin. It is also a less unstable formulation

3. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate: This is one of the most stable and most hydrating formulations of Vitamin C. Being one of the mildest formulations it is great for irritated skin and its anti-inflammatory benefits also make it very useful for acne-prone skin.

And finally, some other milder forms include: Sodium Ascorbate; Calcium Ascorbate; Ascorbyl Palmitate

Can Vitamin C be combined with Retinoids?

The short answer is most definitely YES! And this is because these two ingredients work in different but very complimentary ways. Combining them allows you to harness and boost the effectiveness of each ingredient separately and it gives you a well-rounded approach to skin health.

On the one hand you have Vitamin C fighting away those free radicals and acting as a wonderful antioxidant and skin brightener and on the other hand you have Retinoids boosting that cell turn over to bring healthy cells to the skin surface and together they then result in boosted collagen production, reduction in fine lines and an improvement in skin tone. So they really are a powerful duo that target both the deep and superficial skin layers.

A common way to combine these in a skin care regime is using your Vitamin C in the morning and your Retinoids (Vitamin A) at night. This way you have round-the clock benefits from your skin care and can make the most of both ingredients,

As with all active skin care ingredients the advice is to start slow, observe how your skin reacts, allow your skin to get used to any new regime and then build up to daily use.

For a deep dive into Retinoids, check out our dedicated blogpost right here.

Other product matches made in heaven:

Vitamin C + SPF
Vitamin C + Vitamin E
Vitamin C + Ferulic Acid
Vitamin C + Niacinamide

How to incorporate Vitamin C into your Daily Skincare Routine

We know that Vitamin C can have wonderful skin benefits but as with all active skin care ingredients the key is consistent and long-term application for maximal benefits. Like I always say, if you invest and care for your skin the benefits and the results will be undeniable in the long-run.

Ensure your face is clean and dry prior to application
Ideally apply in the morning to maximise the benefit
Apply it gently across your entire skin surface and avoid vigorous rubbing
Allow time for it to absorb before then applying your hydrating cream and SPF products. Not only will this increase its effectiveness but it will also help reduce the very annoying phenomenon of ‘pilling’ where the product can form into tiny balls that sit there on your skin’s surface
The consistency of your Vitamin C will determine its order of application: Lightweight serums are applied early in the process right after cleansing and/or toning. Heavier cream-like consistencies are applied after your other serums but right before moisturisation or SPF products
Use the right amount – just a few drops or a couple of pumps of Vitamin C are adequate: Too much product can lead to irritation as well as wastage
Always apply UV protection as the last step of your morning routine to help protect your skin and help boost the benefits of your wonderful active skin care ingredients
Incorporating other key ingredients into your regime such as retinoids at night time and exfoliation 2-3 times a week can help supercharge the benefits of Vitamin C

In conclusion, incorporating Vitamin C into your skincare routine is likely to result in a string of benefits including brighter, plumper skin that is more resistant to the effects of our harsh environments.

However, as with all hero skin care ingredients the trick is consistency and patience and using the right type and formulation that works for your individual skin needs and skin type.

At Skin Health by Dr. Jenny, we prioritize your skin's health and well-being. We are here to answer any questions and guide you on your journey to beautiful, radiant skin. You can trust in our commitment to science, ethical practices, and providing you with the most innovative and effective skincare solutions available.

Remember, healthy skin is achievable, and with Vitamin C as part of your regimen, you're one step closer to the skin you've always dreamed of.

If you want to know more, then why not book in a personalized skin consultation with Dr. Jenny to create a bespoke and safe skin care plan for your individual skin type and individual skin concerns.

Stay tuned to our blog for more exciting updates, skincare tips, and scientific insights into the world of skin health.